What are the benefits of using 20w50 motor oil?

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    The benefits go the the mechanic and the seller of parts. 20W-50 takes much more time to circulate, leaving the engine dry 4 to 6 seconds on every startup.

    It is also a benefit for the gas stations, as the car will consume more fuel.

    Stick with what the manufacturer says.

    Adit to Add a bit, since Otilia has apparently confused people and made some incorrect decisions based on the graphing tool I developed and he posted.

    20W-50, as you can see on my chart (posted by Otilia), has a viscosity (resistance to flow) of 582 cSt at 20ºC (68ºF), while at the same temperature the 5W-30 is 161 cSt. That means that at 20ºC (68ºF) the 20W-50 has 3.6 times the resistance to flow and case 3.6 times more wear on startup each time you start at 20ºC. The difference is only 3.15 times more wear at 30ºC (86ºF), but 5 times more wear if your were to start your car at 0ºC (32ºF).

    And the extra resistance means that your hydraulic VVT system is not working as designed, taking away more power and consuming more fuel.

    Benefits compared to what?… Straight 50 weight… 20–50 is better at cold start lubrication but not good, just better than a 50 weight from the 1940’s.

    Compared to anything else, it is dreadful. the ‘20’ part means your engine will not have oil of the correct ‘thinness’ for tens of miles and will suffer high levels of wear during cold starts.

    The ‘50′ part is largely irrelevant as it has essentially the same viscosity once hot as a 40.

    All engines are designed to run on oil that has heated to and is as ‘thin’ as water. The longer your oil takes to get that thin, the higher the engine wear. the smaller the engine the harder that engine has to work, so the more extreme the early wear is.

    ‘Cold starts’ does not mean ice on the road. It means once the engine is cold to the touch. After 8 hours it is definitely a ‘cold start’.

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    None, synthetics are tough in light weights. It seems the item to suffer from going to a lighter than recommended rate on a vehicle is cam lobes, particularly in older cars where they did not have a roller bearing style cam follower. So start at the lowest weight recommended by the manufacturer in a synthetic just to protect your cam lobes. It will provide the least wear and best mileage. If that eventually does start needing topping up between changes, only then consider moving up the scale. I do recall decades ago a motorcycle magazine testing 20 – 50 against the lighter oil and they found the air cooled engine ran 30 degrees hotter up a mountain using the heavier oil in multiple runs. More heat equals more friction. You may not see the issue in a water cooled engine but the extra friction is still there. Another test, pour a non synthetic quart of 10–30 in -20 weather – 2 or 3 minutes later you may be done. I currently run the recommended Honda Synthetic 0–20 oil at these temperatures tapachula temperature – Google Search Only 100,000 k on it but engine running fine. Don’t believe me about heavy 20–50 oil try each from your freezer which is not as cold. Time how long it takes to pour from the bottle vs a light weight synthetic matching your cars recommendations. If you do use non synthetics and are in -20 -50 temperatures make sure your block heater is working and even better add a oil pan heater as well.

    1. As can be seen on both the graphics (above and bellow), @t 0º/32F, 5w-30 has roughly the same viscosity as 20w-50 @t 20º/68F..

      So
      climate, type of service and engine condition (wear) are all key factors when selecting both start-up and OT multigrade oil viscosity!

      (OT = Operating temperature = 100ºC)
    2. On an engine intended to use 10w-40 new, when on a hot climate, (mild to hot ambient temperature on startup):
    3. Might help worn engines mitigate their oil consumption, as long as mainly driven on the low to mid RPM range (If 5w to 15w50 is too expensive).

    4. 20w-50 is only for warmer (never cold or freezing) climates, OR…

    Just
    One to two cold starts a day, whichever comes first (like a Cab)!

    5. Makes for very affordable DIY Oil changes, no more postponing an oil change!

    6. In a pinch, you can use it to top up your gear-box (or differential, on the thin side), as it holds no ‘synchros’ eating EP additives!

    7. You can use it to top up your Manual Transmission (gearbox), especially if you use a polar gearbox additive alongside.

    8. HTHS -High Temp High Shear resistance, as you can see above, best engine protection, while driving Hard /Racing /Towing /Hot climates, starts at 10w~15w!.. 5w-40 hasn’t the High Temp(150º/300F) High Shear resistance of 15w-xx oils (3.7cP), despite having the same Operating Temp. viscosity grade (-40)!

    If your engine is worn out, it can help a lot. My wife’s well used caravan does well on it. Any lower viscosity gets burned away quickly in the hot climate of the south where we live. In the winter months, I might switch to a thinner oil, but for now its better than dumping a quart every two weeks into it.

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    I do not see any benefits at all.

    Use only what it shows on the oil cap of your engine.

    Variable valve timing may not work correctly and your engine will wear out faster over a lot of time.

    20W50 ia the endgame. Its the thickest viscosity engine oil. When ur engine is at last stage and any thinner oil is being consumed by it 20W50 will work. But if u have a new car 20W50 is not the right oil for it.

    #profi_car #20W50

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    It’s ok for very worn engines that are burning oil, but you will lose a little bit of gas mileage and it may clog up some engines with fine passages or hydraulic actuators like VTEC or 8/6/4.

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